Cartier Vintage Fifties trembleuse brooch moveable flower that opens/closes 1950
- About the artwork
While unfolding the five petals of gold gauze, a trembleuse heart of diamonds, sapphires, rubies and emeralds arises from this Fifties 18K yellow gold flower brooch signed by Cartier.
With all its colour and gimmickry, this meticulously crafted statement piece can portray your every mood. Wear it with the flower wide open, and let your own magnificence radiate through the flickering gems as they jitter on top of their stems with every move you make. Or wear the flower as a closed bud and present a more mysterious and timid character full of promise with the potential of blossoming.
Oh who are we kidding, this Cartier piece doesn't need our humble words. Let it speak for itself and you will see that this striking jewel simply fulfills everything one desires from any occasion.
Antique jewelry object group: brooch
Condition: excellent condition
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Country of origin: France
Style: Vintage Fifties (of the twentieth century)
- See also: Fifties (of the twentieth century)or more info on styles
Period: ca. 1950
- (events & facts of this era, poetry of this era, fashion of this era)
Source of inspiration: Mother Nature (see also: flower symbolism)
Material: 18K yellow gold
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Technique: Tremblant or Trembleuse - Tremblant is French for "trembling". Referring to a jewel decorated with a flower or other motif that has at the top stiff projecting wires (embellished with gemstones) that tremble when the piece is subjected to any movement.Sometimes the projections are finely coiled silver springs, such as were used in the 18th century, but some examples were made with tubular stems enclosing a strip of steel spring.
Diamond(s): Four brilliant cut diamonds with an estimated weight of ± 0.28ct. (colour and clarity: F/G, vs/si).
- All diamond weights, color grades and clarity are approximate since stones are not removed from their mounts to preserve the integrity of the setting.
Precious stones: Five rubies with an estimated weight of ± 0.28ct.
Four sapphires with an estimated weight of ± 0.22ct.
Four emeralds with an estimated weight of ± 0.16ct.
- All color stone weights are approximate since stones are not removed from their mounts to preserve the integrity of the setting.
Birthstones: Diamond is the birthstone (or month stone) for April, ruby for July, sapphire for September emerald for May.
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Hallmarks: The French control mark for 18K gold representing an eagle's head that was in use in France from about 1838.
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Dimensions: total length 7,15 cm (2,81 inch)
Weight: 33,60 gram (21,60 dwt)
Reference Nº: 19063-0008
Copyright photography: Adin, fine antique jewelry
- About the artist
Cartier was founded in 1847 by jeweller Louis-François Cartier, at the moment he took over the workshop of his mentor. His son Alfred Cartier followed in his father's footsteps in 1874 and later, in 1899, the business was taken over by Alfred's own sons: Louis, Pierre and Jacques. These names would eventually result in the worldwide fame the brand is associated with today, due to the invention of the first watch to be worn on the wrist.
In the early twentieth century, cartier launched some of its most renowned watch designs still sold today, like the Baignoire and Tortue in 1912. In the year of 1914, Cartier first used the symbol of the panther(it still does today as well). An edition of a watch which mimicked the spots and dots of a panther's fur was designed especially for this purpose, by Charleroi-born designer Jeanne Toussaint (1887). After this, the symbol of the panther began to appear on more objects, as powderpuff, cigarette and jewellery boxes. The panther is said to be used as a representation of the Woman as an object of desire.
Until 1964, the company remained in the hands of the Cartier family. The Paris establishement of the company was taken over by a number of investors in 1972. In subsequent years more and more offices began to appear, and other jewellers and watchmakers were taken over in addition to this. A private art foundation was set up: Fondation Cartier pour l'art Contemporain. In 1993 Cartier found itself in a partnership with a large group of fashion brands, such as Piaget, Karl Lagerfeld and Hackett. Since 2012 Cartier is owned by the Richemont holding company and South African Johann Rupert.
The list of celebrities who have worn jewellry from Cartier is endless; Great Duchess Maria Pavlovna of Russia, the Belgian Queen Elizabeth, Queen Victoria Eugenia of Spain and the English King Edward VII can be included. Grace Kelly is known to have worn Cartier jewellery on a regular basis and when Katherine Middleton married Prince William, she wore an especially designed tiara by Cartier as well.