Gautrait bracelet by Leopold Gautrait
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Gautrait bracelet 1900 - 1910

Leopold Gautrait

DiamondGoldSapphireEnamelGemstone
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Ans Hemke-Kuilboer Juwelier & Antiquair

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About the artwork

Yellow gold 18 carat bracelet set with diamonds and sapphires, finished with enamel. Signed L. Gautrait and stamped with the maker’s mark of Leon Gariod, Paris, France. Made circa 1905 in the style of the Charles X.

About the Artist

Lucien or Léopold Gautrait (1865-1937), is known to have worked for the leading jewellery firms of Henri Vever, Boucheron and Léon Gariod in Paris. The known pieces by Gautrait are mainly pendants and brooches and often take inspiration from Lalique techniques. However, his compositions have a distinctive ornamental character and show a preference for swung contours into which functional pieces, such as loops and fastenings, are fitted. Gautrait was highly skilled at creating bird pieces, specifically peacocks, with lush, densely colored and glittering plumage made with enamel. The effect of finely chased gold and enamels is most obvious, while precious stones provide discreet accents. Work attributed to Gautrait is also notable for the finely sculpted female faces and exceptional luminous enamel work. Aside from the scattering of pieces that can be positively attributed to Gautrait, little else is known about the man or his work. Some of his pieces can be found in the Victoria & Albert Museum (London), Fitzwilliam Museum (Cambridge), Bavarian National Museum (Munich), Schmuckmuseum (Pforzheim) and others.

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